abandon all that you know, ye who enter here
That was my first reaction as I disembarked from the Delhi-Varanasi Vande Bharat Express and stepped into the railway station. The train ride was pleasant enough; the train was on time, there were no delays, and the 8-hour journey included good food (breakfast, lunch, and ice cream!). The train was clean enough (except for the toilets, but the staff was active and would have cleaned them had I requested it). Overall, it was a good journey. It was my first train trip in years, so I had a ball. This was a completely unplanned trip, and I spent 8 hours figuring out accommodation and things to do. I was excited because I wasn’t expecting much. But one thing I was expecting was heat and crowds. This summer was especially unbearable for northern India, and it was impossible to go out. On top of that, we were traveling a week before the scheduled elections in Banaras (which was the most venerated constituency in the country), and it was summer vacation, so the crowds were expected.
How many? That was the question.
As I got off the train, I was overwhelmed. I expected crowds, but I was not prepared for this many. The place was packed with people—no exaggeration, every inch of the station was filled. The 50°C heat didn’t help either, and haggling with the merciless auto drivers under the blazing sun was not particularly enjoyable, but I was excited nonetheless. Sometimes, chaotic travels make the best stories.
So, why had I chosen to visit this city a week before the elections during a deadly heatwave?
To achieve spiritual enlightenment, of course! Varanasi is a city of shopping, history, culture, food, sarees, and the Ganga. It had everything I hold dear, and with the city being so close to home, it seemed like a good idea.
Without getting too pretentious, let me clarify a few things: I did not achieve spiritual salvation in Kashi. I didn’t come out a changed person, didn't fall ill from sensory overload, didn't get to enjoy the famous chaat of Benaras, and did not indulge in cannabis products (boo, I know).
So, how did I spend my 46 hours there, and why am I writing about it? Although I didn’t partake in the most stereotypical Banarasi traditions, I still have plenty of memories and stories from this unexpected and spontaneous journey into Kashi's heart. Since I have a lot to say, I’m planning to serialize my travel account. In the coming posts, I’ll take you on this adventure and share my thoughts and experiences in a city that has inspired billions across cultures for most of recorded human history.
A week earlier, I had been visiting the National Gallery of Modern Art in New Delhi and wondered why so many artists across generations had painted the city, most notably MF Hussain and the marvelous paintings depicting the Manikarnika Ghat. And now, I get it—the city inspires you, and, it inspired me to return to this blog after more than a year. So, in that way, I did change.
Forgive the pretense; one does get a bit dramatic when talking about a city like Varanasi. It may not have changed me, but I did experience things I never had before and, came out a slightly better human (lol). I hope you enjoy this journey. Please feel free to share your thoughts, opinions, questions, complaints, and/or criticisms of my barely adequate writing. I would appreciate a discussion.
Dhanyavad.
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